Henry Chow

@jujushoots

Photographer based in Australia

Known for his ability to find beauty in both the bustling energy of urban landscapes and the serene tranquility of nature, Henry offers a captivating journey through ten iconic Japanese photography spots. This article combines his expert insights, creative process, and practical tips. It provides an inspiring guide for photographers eager to elevate their portfolios with scenes from one of the world’s most photogenic countries.

Ten photography spots in Japan to keep building your portfolio

The most unexpected thing to me about photographing Japan is that there is no dull moment. Every street, landscape, cityscape, or even the local 7/11 is photogenic. Every moment seems to be worth capturing – I guess it’s just a matter of picking what to capture. Below, you can find my “most” Japanese spots. I hope they inspire your upcoming artwork!  

Pic 1) Oshino Hakkai is near Mt Fuji, arguably the most famous and accessible mountain in Japan. A bucket list destination! I’ve only been in Spring and would highly recommend it because of the Sakura season, the flowers used as foreground against Mt Fuji are stunning!

To get some great shots, try everything and take your time, experiment with wide-angle shots with foreground framing of Sakura leaves, the lake, or something else interesting. Or you could try tight shots and get detailed shots of the tip of Mt Fuji.

Pic 2) Fukuoka is ideal for experiencing the Southern part of Japan and the unique food, culture, and scenery it offers.

Pic 3) Kanazawa is just a short distance from Tokyo, a place to enjoy a quieter and very serene side of Japan.

I find it hard to photograph in extremely busy places (like Tokyo), when too many things fill the scene. The opposite of that is Kanazawa, where I could take my time and slow down and wait for the right subject to enter a composition in the quieter streets. 

I had a good time at Kenroku-en and the surroundings of Kanazawa Castle Park. Springtime is beautiful again when the cherry blossoms are in full bloom, and the crowds are much less than in, say, Tokyo. Next time, I would love to visit the Higashi Chaya district, a traditional Japanese street in Kanazawa.

Pic 4) Kawaguchiko is a town in Japan, located near the base of Mount Fuji. It is centered around Lake Kawaguchi, one of the famous Five Fuji Lakes.

Pic 5) Kyoto is ideal for experiencing the old capital of Japan and its many temples and shrines with historical significance. Sakurai Futamigaura in Fukuoka is particularly photogenic to me. It’s a white Torii gate joined by a rope with a “couple stone” in the distance on the beach, making for a unique scene. It’s not exactly typical of what you picture a Japanese shrine to look like, but it’s well worth visiting and photographing it.

Kyoto is a well-photographed city and has a lot to offer. It is good to take inspiration and composition ideas from social media and other photography-related media, and it is perfectly fine to get “that famous shot” once you’re at the destination as you wish. But after you get “that” shot – if you want to stand out and do something unique – stay around and look for other interesting compositions. Try different angles and focal lengths (wide, neutral, and tight), and shoot at various times of the day (morning, harsh mid-day, golden/blue hour, and night). Visualize how you would like the scene to look as a result and plan for that.

I believe one of the biggest “mistakes” photographers often make when visiting Japan, or any location, is to only take “that” social media photo and not experiment with other compositions enough!

Pic 6) Nagano is perfect for experiencing the famous Snow Monkeys and Shrines/Temples near the ski mountains. This location is a personal favorite. For quieter spots like Kanazawa and Nagano, it’s essential to slow down and be present, capturing both the vast scenery and the details up close.

Pic 7) Osaka is a vibrant and lively city known for its laid-back culture, delicious street food, and dynamic urban life.

Pic 8) Sapporo is fantastic for capturing the beautiful snow season, a rarity where I live in Australia, especially against a Japanese backdrop. It is something unforgettable!

Pic 9) Shibuya is a vibrant district in Tokyo known for its bustling streets, modern skyscrapers, and cutting-edge fashion. Its iconic Shibuya Crossing, where thousands of people cross in all directions, symbolizes the fast-paced life of its citizens and is a popular spot for tourists to experience and photograph.

To convey that energy in a still photograph, you can use something wide and incorporate lots of subjects (people). For an added sense of “motion” and “energy”, try slow shutter panning of subjects at the Shibuya crossing giving the whole scene a sense of speed and business.

Pic 10) Tokyo is a must-see for everyone traveling to Japan! It is the largest city in the world by population, and its mix of modern skyscrapers and traditional temples makes it an ideal destination for street photography.

To capture the essence, again, take it slow. Be sure to capture the wider environment and the closer-up detail shots, but also remember that Japan has a culture that very much upholds personal space, so be sure to be respectful and prioritize harmony over getting your perfect image. 

Photography is fun, and so is traveling to Japan. It’s not all about clicking away on the camera; be sure to immerse yourself in the culture, the food, and the way of life. Japan has much to offer beyond just photography which makes it so great for photography. Make sure to balance planning your trip around photography and leave room for spontaneity, considering the rhythm of the people, city, culture, and country specifics.

Gear and lenses to bring when on a trip

When traveling, “light” is the name of the game. For absolute versatility, I bring a standard zoom (24-70), one fast prime (my favorite is the 35mm), and only if needed a tele-zoom (70-200mm). 

I mention the 24-70 and the 70-200 because they cover the focal range from wide at 24mm to very tight at 200mm, you’ll almost have all your bases covered for all types of photography. Besides these focal lengths, I’ve most recently tried 20mm and 10mm. I would say 20mm can also be quite helpful in crowded or tight spaces where 24mm doesn’t give you enough space between you and a subject. I would not recommend the 10mm unless you are a photographer needing it for particular purposes such as architecture and real estate.

If I wanted to be absolutely as light as possible but as versatile as possible, I would bring one body plus one lens combo – the lens being a 24-70. I’m not sponsored by any camera brands but something like a Sony A7C or Sony A7C2 plus a Sigma 28-70mm F2.8 or the Sony 20-70 F4 would achieve the goal.

A telephoto lens can be very helpful to get certain shots, but when you want to travel light, it is not the best item to bring with you. The trade-off for not bringing a telephoto on your travels would be the compression and reach you can achieve at 85mm or beyond. To overcome this, if physically possible, you can “zoom with your feet” and get closer to your subject (if it’s safe to do so). Otherwise, with modern digital cameras, there are usually more than enough megapixels in modern sensors to do cropping in post. But if lightness is a consideration a 85mm or a 135mm prime could also be a consideration. 

Regarding camera gear, however, the most essential gear, for everyone but especially beginners, is always the gear you have. Ask yourself what your purpose is; if you share photos with friends and family, or even on social media, most people won’t and cannot tell what camera body or lens you took the images with. To that extent, I would recommend first using your phone and/or any camera and lens you or the family already have. Get used to composing, learning the different modes of the camera, and understanding exposure.

Once you get your feet wet, I suggest looking on the second-hand market for a full-frame setup like a Sony A7III or A7C. Beyond this level, I don’t think you’ll need any more advice from me!

Camera settings and color

During our trip to Osaka, we set aside time to watch the sunset from Umeda Sky. The skylines’ beautiful blue and purple hues made it an exceptional experience!

Golden hour is wonderful too, however two things make blue hour more interesting for me. Firstly because I have a preference for cool tones in my images (not a must but just a preference). Secondly, blue hour slips by really quickly and everything in the scene sort of becomes like a layering of silhouettes, so to be able to capture something stunning in such a short moment becomes special and exciting, as well as challenging. 

To capture the magic of the moment, the following were my camera settings:

Shutter speed: 1/100 sec

Aperture: 2.8

ISO: 3200

39.0 mm (28-70 mm F2.8 DG DN)

As a result, I obtained the following RAW colors:

32639C: A medium blue

50719B: A muted blue

242F40: A dark blue-gray

57657C: A neutral bluish-gray

23272F: An almost black blue-gray

Four steps to enhance blue hour tones and brighten the warm colors in a balanced way

I wanted to make the blues pop and add a soft contrast and warmth. To do so and maintain a calm and cohesive atmosphere, I followed these basic steps in Lightroom Classic:

1) Basic adjustments

White Balance

Temperature 5,000

Tint +3

 

Tone

Exposure +0,76

Contrast +5

Highlights -52

Shadows +35

Whites -14

Blacks -7

 

Presence

Texture +11

Clarity -12

Vibrance +9

Saturation -5

2) Cinematic S curve

 

3) HSL

Hue

Red +7

Orange -26

Yellow -15

Green -76

Aqua +17

Blue -3

Saturation

Red -4

Orange +2

Yellow -10

Green -73

Aqua -6

Blue -9

Luminance

Red -5

Orange +15

Yellow -29

Green -55

Aqua -14

Blue -14

 

4) I used 2D7AFD for both the highlights and shadows – a vibrant shade of blue associated with energy, creativity, and trust.

Final color palette

After the above steps, most colors were blue, ranging from deep blue (16212D) to bright cyan (2C7FAC). On the other hand, 958180 (a neutral warm) added a contrasting element that complemented the cooler blue tones. This selection creates a subtle yet effective split-complementary effect, as the warm taupe stands out against the cool blues without clashing, balancing the overall feel of the palette. I have a set of personal presets that I generally use as a base, which is a helpful starting point. When using a preset, it is still important to fine-tune the HSL and exposure sliders.

On being in the moment

A common mistake when enhancing blue hour shots is being too enthusiastic with the blue saturation and hue slider. Instead, keep it natural and only enhance the image; don’t make it unrealistic by over-editing blue and aqua colors. 

While I enjoy editing, shooting is my preferred part of photography. Being in the moment, and capturing the scene with my camera is special for me. My least favorite part is culling the thousands of images after the shooting session. However, it is necessary to select the best shots and reach the final images – photographs you can feel proud of and which hopefully inspire the community and tell a story to the audience! 

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